Let's Talk Food

I realize my last few blog entries have been quite serious in nature, so I thought it would be nice to switch gears for a little bit. While I am certainly passionate about politics and current events, there are many other things about which I am passionate. One of those passions is cooking. I started cooking at an early age, experimenting with simple recipes in my Better Homes and Gardens Step by Step Kids Cookbook. I spent two summers working in a kitchen in my late teens, where I learned a great deal, and furthered my passion for great food. These days, Macy and I find time to cook and enjoy great meals at home almost every night.

I have recently added a spectacular new dish to my repertoire - Osso Bucco. I love the bold and complex flavors of Mediterranean cooking. Literally translated, "osso bucco" means "hole bone." This name comes from the cut of meat involved in the recipe - a veal shank. Personally, I don't like to cook with veal. Some people love the taste, but I could personally care less. It also can be very expensive, and if you're like me, you're trying to save money, not spend it lavishly. Instead, I like to work with beef shanks.

Behold the beef shank, in all of its glory. The shank comes from the cow's upper leg. The bone in the center contains a large amount of marrow, which is what makes osso bucco special.

For the cook, a beef shank represents a challenge. It is not a naturally tender cut of meat, in fact, it is quite the opposite. It is a muscle the cow relies on almost every day, which means it is very firm and strong (tender cuts tend to come from parts that experience little use). It is also extremely lean. A fatty cut, like a ribeye, will naturally baste itself with the fat inside of it and remain moist, but a beef shank won't do that. It also contains a lot of connective tissue, which makes the meat sinewy. What is a cook to do?

The answer is, braise it! The word comes from the French word "braiser," and basically means cooking something slowly with very moist heat. Braising naturally forces moisture into the food, which allows the heat to break down the connective tissues in the meat, without drying it out. The result is that, when done properly, even the toughest cuts of meat will become extremely tender, and a pleasure to eat. Many years ago, when our ancestors relied on wild game for their meat, they probably relied heavily on this technique, as wild meats tend to be tougher.

In Osso Bucco, the beef shanks are braised for roughly three hours, until all of the marrow in the bones liquefies, and the beef falls off the bones. The marrow imparts a tremendous amount of flavor to this dish. People don't work with it that much any more, and I'm not sure why. It is said to contain a lot of monounsaturated fats, which are thought to decrease bad cholesterol levels, thus reducing the risk of heart disease. It does require time in order to harness the marrow's full potential, and many Americans simply don't have, or don't want to take, the time to cook with it. But I digress.

Everybody cooks osso bucco differently, and almost everybody can do it well. Below is the recipe I use. It makes dinner for three.

2 beef shanks
kosher salt and fresh ground black pepper
flour
extra virgin olive oil
3/4 cup chopped carrots
3/4 cup chopped onion
3/4 cup chopped celery
3 sprigs fresh thyme
14 oz can diced tomatoes
2 cups chicken stock
4 minced cloves garlic
1 cup of a dry white wine, such as a Chardonnay or pinot grigio
1/2 cup chopped parsley

1) Preheat your oven to 375. Get a good sized skillet, and coat the bottom with a light layer of extra virgin olive oil. Turn the heat on medium - you don't want to make it too hot, or the oil will burn.

2) Get a plate, and place the beef on it. Season it lightly with salt and pepper, then coat all sides with flour.

3) Put the beef in the hot pan, and brown it on all sides (you're not trying to cook it all the way, just the very outside!) Set it aside.

4) Add the chopped carrot, celery, onion, and thyme. Saute until onions are translucent, about eight minutes. Add the garlic and saute another 45 seconds, until you can smell it. Add the tomatoes (and all of their liquid), the stock, and the wind, and bring it to a boil. Throw the parsley in.

5) Get a good sized, deep oven safe dish, preferably one with a cover. Put the beef in the bottom. Pour your sauce over the top. You want the beef to be immersed in the liquid, while just peaking through on the top. Cover the dish with its lid, or a piece of foil.

6) Stick the whole thing in the oven, and cook for about 2 or 2 1/2 hours.

7) When there's about 45 minutes left for the meat, make a batch of risotto. It's made from arborio rice, chicken stock or wine, onions, and a little Parmesan. Just google "risotto" and you will find a good recipe.

8) Also, you can make a lemon gremolata. Remove the zest (skin) of a lemon with a grater. Get a few cloves of garlic and chop them very small. Then take about 2 tablespoons of fresh parsley leaves, and chop them very fine. Mix it all together and put it in the fridge.

When everything is done, it's time to plate it! This is where you can impress your loved one(s) and/or dinner guests. Get a plate, or a wide bowl. Spoon a good sized portion of risotto into the bottom. Then take some of the meat (it will have come off the bone by now), and place it on top. Spoon a big portion of sauce on the top. Garnish with a generous sprinkle of lemon gremolata. Serve immediately.

I guarantee that if you enjoy beef, you'll love this dish. The leftover sauce is delicious over rice by itself. So, the next time you're thinking about buying something frozen, or going out to eat on Friday or Saturday night, I would encourage you to try cooking something new - and get a friend or partner involved, because that only ups the fun!

Here's to good food you make yourself.